Chanel No. 22, a fragrance shrouded in mystery and coveted by collectors, occupies a unique space in the world of perfume. Discontinued for decades, its elusive nature only adds to its allure. But what exactly *does* Chanel No. 22 smell like? Describing its scent is a challenge, a journey into a sensory landscape as complex and multifaceted as the woman it was designed for. It's not a simple floral or a straightforward oriental; it's a sophisticated blend that defies easy categorization, a testament to the genius of Ernest Beaux, the perfumer behind this iconic creation.
The most evocative description I've encountered compares its scent to that of fine champagne. This isn't a superficial comparison; it delves into the nuances of the beverage, capturing the essence of its multifaceted aroma profile. Imagine the subtle sweetness of the initial pour, the effervescence that tickles the nose, and then the slow unfolding of complex notes. No. 22 possesses this same unfolding complexity.
The "vanilla and spice of the cask" allude to the warm, comforting base notes. Vanilla, a cornerstone of many classic perfumes, provides a creamy, smooth foundation. However, it's not a sugary, gourmand vanilla; it's richer, deeper, perhaps even slightly smoky, hinting at the aging process within the "cask." The spices are not overtly pungent; instead, they contribute a subtle warmth and complexity, adding depth and intrigue to the composition. Think of the gentle warmth of cinnamon or clove, not a fiery explosion of pepper.
The "indole of the dead lees" is where the description becomes truly fascinating and perhaps slightly unsettling to the uninitiated. Indole, a naturally occurring compound found in jasmine and other flowers, can smell fecal at high concentrations. However, in masterful perfumery, as in Chanel No. 22, it's handled with exquisite precision. Here, it doesn't smell overtly unpleasant; instead, it contributes a dark, earthy, almost animalic undertone. This is the "lees," the sediment left after fermentation, lending a surprising depth and a hint of decay that adds to the fragrance's unique character. It’s the subtle whisper of something forbidden, a touch of darkness that elevates the fragrance beyond the merely pretty. It's a fascinating note that adds a layer of complexity and intrigue, showcasing the perfumer's skill in balancing contrasting elements.
The "richness and florals and acid" are the heart of the fragrance. The richness comes from the blend of various floral notes, likely including jasmine, rose, and perhaps even tuberose. These florals are not delicate or shy; they are bold, full-bodied, and opulent. The "acid" is a crucial element, likely derived from citrus notes like bergamot or lemon, which provide a bright, refreshing counterpoint to the warmer, richer elements. This acidic note prevents the fragrance from becoming cloying or overly sweet. It acts as a vital balancing element, creating a dynamic interplay between light and dark, sweetness and sharpness. The result is a fragrance that is both luxurious and invigorating.
This description, while evocative, only scratches the surface of Chanel No. 22's olfactory landscape. It's a fragrance that rewards repeated wearings, revealing new facets with each encounter. It's a perfume that evolves on the skin, changing subtly throughout the day, reflecting the wearer's own unique chemistry.
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